- Beginner's climbing
- Everest Region
- Mountaineering Expeditions
- Nepal
- Nepal Climbing and Expeditions
- Peak Climbing
Island (Imja Tse) Peak Climbing:
Island or Imja Tse peak climbing is the most popular climbing / trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION | Kathmandu | |||||||||||
JOIN GROUP | 1 before departure from Kathmandu. | |||||||||||
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SERVICE DOES NOT INCLUDE |
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Summit of Island Peak
The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place and one has to be careful for avalanches. From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m. From the high camp scramble across the open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight op and cross to the glacier. Find your way upwards, to the left side between the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully with on your left side rocks and on the right side more open space. This gully leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones and ice. View from the summit of Island PeakThe ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit which is reached by a final snow pitch.
North Ridge:
Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes op to the col at 5,700 m. Put your camp on the col. From the col follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge steepens for the final top. This route is a little more difficult than the normal route.
Outline Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)
Day 02: Kathmandu (1300m/4264ft): trip preparation
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,184ft) then trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 5-6 hours
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day
Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft): 5- 6 hours
Day 07: Tengboche to Pheriche (4,200m/13,776ft): 4-5 hours
Day 08: Pheriche to Lobuche (4,930m/16,170ft): 5-6 hours
Day 09: Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5170 m/16,961ft), visit Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,594ft): 6-7 hours
Day 10: Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar (5545m/18,192ft) and back to Lobuche (4940m/16,207ft): 7-8 hours
Day 11: Lobuche to Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft) to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 6-7 hours
Day 12: Chhukung to Island Peak base camp (5,200m/17,060ft): 3-4 hours
Day 13: Pre-climb training on Island Peak Base Camp
Day 14: Island Peak base camp to Island Peak summit (6,189m/20,305ft),back to base camp: 10-12 hours
Day 15: Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3,985m/13,074ft) 5-6 hours
Day 16: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft): 4-5 hours
Day 17: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft): 6-7 hours
Day 18: Fly to Kathmandu (1,350m/4,428ft)
Day 19: Final Departure
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)
Kathmandu (1300m/4264ft): trip preparation
Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,184ft) then trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek
Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 5-6 hours
Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day
For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. While in the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!). Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft): 5- 6 hours
Tengboche to Pheriche (4,200m/13,776ft): 4-5 hours
Pheriche to Lobuche (4,930m/16,170ft): 5-6 hours
Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5170 m/16,961ft), visit Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,594ft): 6-7 hours
Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar (5545m/18,192ft) and back to Lobuche (4940m/16,207ft): 7-8 hours
Lobuche to Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft) to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 6-7 hours
Note: If we do not want to undertake the Kongma La pass, we can follow another route via Dingboche to Chhukung instead.
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