Mera Peak & Island Peak Climbing (Double Peak – Expedition)

A legendary 23-day Himalayan adventure combining Mera Peak, Amphu Lapcha Pass, and Island Peak, ideal for experienced trekkers seeking serious mountaineering challenge, dramatic glacier crossings, and unbeatable Everest-region scenery.

Country

Nepal

Duration

23 Days

Difficulty

Challenging

Trip Type

Climbing & Expedition

Max Altitude

6476m/21247ft

Best Season

All Seasons, Mar - Dec

Accomodation

3***hotel in kathmandu , Lodge and Tented twin sharing bed basis during the trek.

Meals

All Meals ( Lunch , Dinner and Breakfast ) with Cup of Tea/Coffee during the Trek.

Start/End Point

Kathmandu

Highlights & Overview

Summit two iconic Himalayan peaks — Mera Peak (6476m/21247ft) & Island Peak (6189m/20305ft) in one expedition
Technical crossing of the wild and remote Amphu Lapcha Pass — one of the most thrilling high-altitude passes in Nepal
Spectacular close-up views of five 8000m giants — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga
Traverse through untouched alpine wilderness, glacial valleys, turquoise lakes & dramatic ice landscapes
Cultural immersion in Sherpa villages, ancient monasteries & Himalayan Buddhist culture
Scenic mountain flight to Lukla, gateway to the Everest region
Fully supported expedition with experienced climbing guides, training sessions & acclimatization days
Adventure blend of high-altitude trekking + mountaineering, ideal for skilled trekkers aiming to become climbing-grade mountaineers
Breathtaking sunrise panoramas from summit ridges & glacier plateaus
Lifetime achievement — Nepal’s ultimate multi-peak climbing journey
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is an elite climbing adventure that takes you to the summit of two of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks. It is a challenging high-altitude journey that takes you across the dramatic river valleys in the Khumbu Region. Walk across thick jungles, picturesque Sherpa villages, rhododendron forests, and high suspension bridges. Traverse high mountain passes, glaciers, and stunning mountain lakes. To reach the twin summits, you navigate dangerous crevasses and climb steep ice walls. Enjoy close up views of 8000 and 7000-meter peaks.
You begin your journey from Kathmandu with flight to Lukla, the ‘Gateway to Everest.’ You walk across the wild and uninhabited Hinku valley to Mera Peak Base Camp. This part of the trail lies off-the-beaten-path and trekkers rarely visit this area. Enjoy walking in solitude while taking in the pristine views of the forest and snow-covered peaks. You spend a night camping at Mera High Camp before making the final summit push to Mera Peak. The summit of Mera Peak is the highest point of your trip.
After your summit, you push ahead and cross the Hongu Valley. En route is the challenging and difficult crossing of Amphu Laptsa pass. This is one of the most dangerous mountain passes in the Himalayas. Technical climbing skills are required to cross this pass. Using fixed ropes, jumar and harness you climb up the ice shelves and cross the ridge. The steep descent over a rocky slope is challenging even for seasoned climbers.
Walking across the Imja Glacier, you reach the Island Peak Base Camp. Island Peak, which is locally known as Imja Tse, was named by Eric Shipton as it looks like a frozen island rising above the Imja Valley. From the base camp, we attempt to reach the summit of Island Peak via a straightforward route. There are crevasses en route where we use ladders to get across. The last section of the climb involves using a fixed rope to climb up an ice wall to reach the summit. Surrounded by the giants of the Himalayas, it feels awesome to stand on the top. It is a grueling but satisfying descent to Chukkung.
You return to Lukla via the Dudh Koshi valley. The stops at the Sherpa villages of Pangboche, Namche, and Lukla will give you an insight into the Sherpa lifestyle and culture. During your journey, you will be staying at teahouses and tented camps. While camping the local crew will prepare nutritious and healthy meals for you.
The best seasons for Mera and Island Peak Climbing 23 – 24 days are spring and autumn. The weather remains stable and clear most of the time during these seasons which makes climbing easy. It is also possible to take this trip during early winter if you are not very concerned about the extreme cold.
This is a challenging adventure which people with experience of high altitude trekking and hiking can do. A high degree of physical fitness and endurance level is a must. The previous climbing experience though not required, will be helpful. Novice climbers will be taught basic climbing skills at the pre-climb training camp. An experienced climbing and trekking crew led by a Sherpa climbing guide with more than two decades of experience will help you achieve your goal. Safety procedures will be strictly followed. All permits are included in the package.
Mera Climbing Route & Best Time
The standard route of Mera peak climbing in Nepal is via the North face, it is relatively even for beginner climbers. It is a nice way to experience an expedition in Nepal. This north face climbing route involves crossing a high altitude glacier which means that snow conditions are crucial for safety and a chance for a successful summit. The summit day is long and strenuous; hence a high level of fitness is required for a safe and successful ascent. September-December & March to June is the best climbing periods to climb. Due to its long climbing season, relatively easy route and spectacular scenery from its summit, Mera Peak is a very popular objective for many commercial expeditions in Nepal. At the same time due to its remoteness a Mera peak expedition offers a relatively private climbing experience in Nepal.
Spring (March, April, May) and autumn (September, October November) are the most favorable seasons for Mera peak climbing Nepal. Nature Trail may operate the trip even in winter season if some climbers are interested in taking on that challenge. After a 35 minute mountain flight you will arrive in Lukla. The following day you will begin trekking to Mera Peak via the Hinku valley. Most of the time “Nature Trail” will go directly up to high camp at Khare, however we also established Mera La base camp at an elevation of 5400 meters for those climbers who do not have previous experience or could not move faster for some reason.
Why to climb with Nature Trail Trekking and Expeditions?
Nature Trail organizes a climbing training course which covers various aspects of climbing techniques and skills, glacier travel, ascending and descending fixed rope to ensure that our clients have the necessary climbing skills and confidence before setting out for the himalayan adventure. Mera high camps are usually fixed at an elevation of 5800 meters behind a large vertical rock wall. The summit day starts early in morning around 1:00-2:00AM. Nature Trail has a 99% of summit success rate on this peak and we ensure 99% safe practices from our staff. The mera peak climbing cost offering by NTT is very competitive in the mountaineering business with nominal service charge. Our professional climbing team can modify the Mera peak climbing itinerary if necessary to change according to the field situation. The summit plan and practice tends to the pre-given itinerary but if necessary it can be changed.

Short Itinerary

Download Itinerary

Price Includes

Transfer from Airport – Hotel – Airport: Car, Van, Hi-ace or Coaster in a private vehicle.
Accommodation in Kathmandu, Four nights on Twin share Bed and Breakfast Basis
Accommodation during Camping ; Meals during Eight nights Camping
All standard meals(Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) during the trekking
English speaking experienced and certified Sherpa Guide (Govt. Trained/License Holder).
All Camping Equipment required during the trek, sleeping tents/mattresses, kitchen tent, kitchen equipment
Climbing rope, Ice screws, Snow bar
Trekking cook, kitchen staff, Trek Sherpa and other support staff while Camping Days
One Sherpa guide-assistant if group size is more than 4 Trekkers.
Porters: One porter for Two Trekkers basis in all of our Climbing Trips
Trek Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, food and accommodation.
Personal insurance for Nepalese staff.
First aid medicine kit.
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Permit
Sagarmatha and Makalu Barun (Both) National Park Fee, TIMS permits & all required permits or Official Documentation.
Round-Trip airfare between Kathmandu and Lukla (Airport Tax Included All government and local taxes.
Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing certificates issued from the respective body of Nepal Government.
All required Group Climbing Equipments and Gears

Price Doesn't Include

our Personal Travel Insurance.
Nepal Entry Visa Fee.
Beverages (drinks, mineral water,boiled water and beer).
Tips for guide, porters and driver (customary).
Any personal expenses not mentioned in above services.
Additional night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early return from Trek (due to any reason) than the planned itinerary.

Mera Peak & Island Peak Climbing (Double Peak – Expedition) Itinerary

Once you arrive in Kathmandu, our representative will meet you at the airport and drive you to your hotel. Check-in and take a rest. Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Max Altitude

1400m/4593ft

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

You will meet your guide today and he will brief you on your upcoming climb. He will share some important tips and inform you about the condition of the route. There will be a final gear and equipment check after the briefing. Over-night at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Max Altitude

1400m/4593ft

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

If you are lucky you will get a seat on the first flight to Lukla which flies directly from Kathmandu.
It is a thrilling experience to fly to Lukla, set amid high mountains and cliffs. Once you reach Lukla, you will meet the rest of the crew and head to Paiya. Take the trail to the south and head down to Surkey Village. From the village, the trail goes upwards to Chutok La. A short descent from the pass brings you to Paiya, a small settlement, and the first overnight stop.
Over-night at a tea house in Paiya.
Flight Duration: 35 minutes, Walking Distance: 5-6 km

Max Altitude

2730m/8956ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

After having Himalayas break- fast , Walk past terraced fields, farms, and a lush forest. Cross the Paiya Khola, a small river, and climb up a mountain pass, Khari La. The trail follows an up and down route. Hike through thick rhododendron and bamboo forest and arrive at the picturesque Sherpa settlement of Panggom. Head to a teahouse and rest your tired legs. Over-night at a teahouse in Panggom.

Max Altitude

2846/9337ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Make your way towards Ramailo Danda. It is an upward ascent through a pristine rhododendron forest to Pankongma La (3174m), a mountain pass. We cross the Dudh Koshi River Valley and walk into the Hingku Valley. En route, we savor breathtaking views of Numbur Himal, Kongde, and Manju Peak. We stop briefly at Ningsow for lunch. Afterward, trek up and down to Ramailo Danda. From here we get our first view of Mera Peak. Overnight at a teahouse in Ramailo Danda.

Max Altitude

3276m/10748ft

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

There are no human settlements or villages en route and the trail is wild and challenging. The park is home to Snow leopard, Red panda, Himalayan Tahr, musk deer, and many rare species of birds and plants. We stop at a quiet spot and have our packed lunch. Climbing stone staircases and walking past rocky paths we finally arrive at Chhatra Khola, our stop for the night. Overnight at a teahouse in Chhatra Khola.

Max Altitude

2800m/9186ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Taking the northward trail we walk past a thick bamboo forest and walk towards the Hinku Khola. We enter the Makalu Barun National Park and walk through a pristine trail. The park’s area stretches all the way to the Nepal-Tibet border. The Hinku Valley receives very few trekkers and chances are we may be the only group on the trail. A gradual up and down and after crossing a bridge before we finally arrive in Kothe. Over-night at a teahouse in Kothe.

Max Altitude

3,691m/12,109ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

After Kothe, we reach the Upper Hinku valley where the treeline disappears. There are no villages en route only ‘kharkas’ the summer camps of yak herders dot the landscape. Walk past Gondishung and Lungsumgba Gompa, a two-centuries-old Buddhist shrine. Lying underneath an enormous boulder, the local crew pay homage to deities burning incense. En-route enjoy amazing views of Charpati Himal, Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, and Thamserku. After walking for about an hour we reach Thaknak, a summer camp of yak herders. Charpati Himal lies close to the teahouse and we can see the whole mountain. Overnight at a teahouse in Thaknak.

Max Altitude

4358m/14297ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Today’s walk involves an ascent to the Dig Glacier and the Charpati Tal, a mountain lake. With stunning views of the Kyeshar glacier, Mera Peak, and Charpati Himal we walk down to Dig Kharka. A tough crossing of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers brings us to Khare. Khare lies at the bottom of Mera Peak and is also known as Mera Peak Base Camp. We climb Mera Peak from here. Over-night at a teahouse in Khare.

Max Altitude

5045m/16486ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Today you will spend your time acclimatizing and practicing your climbing moves at the pre-climb training camp. Our Sherpa climbing guides will teach you how to properly use climbing equipment like jumar, carabiner, belay device, ice axe, harness, etc. They will teach you the basic and safe techniques to scale an incline using a rope and harness.
This training is valuable and helpful if you are a novice climber. A final gear and equipment check will be followed by final packing for the summit push. Please keep in mind climbing boots of size 12 and greater are not readily available in Nepal. If your shoe size is 12 or 12 plus you need to bring it with you from your home country. Over-night at a teahouse in Khare.

Max Altitude

5045m/16486ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Take the steep and rocky path to Mera La. The three summits of Mera Peak – Mera North(6476m), Mera Central(6461m), and Mera South(6065m) – gleam invitingly. We will be climbing the summit of Mera Central. Crossing the Mera glacier we reach Mera Peak high camp. It is an easy hike up a slope with no technical climbing involved.
On reaching Mera High Camp, the crew serves us hot drinks. Enjoy views of five of the fourteen highest peaks in the world- Mount Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu(8485m), Cho Oyu(8188m), and Kanchenjunga (8586m). Chamlang (7319m), Gaurishanker (7134m), and Baruntse (7129m) also appear close. A single sleeping tent will be given to each climber. Food will be prepared by the local crew in a kitchen tent. Over-night at a tented camp in Mera High Camp.

Max Altitude

5780m/18958ft

Accomodation

Tent

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

At 2 AM we prepare for the final summit push. After breakfast, we head out and rope up. A man-rope will secure our group. Hike up the glacier in a single file. No technical climbing is required in this section. The thin air and cold are the only factors that make the ascent difficult. Above 5000 meters we struggle to breathe properly and taking a step forward takes a lot of effort. The last 40-50 meters to the summit is the most challenging portion. It is a steep incline and fixed rope and jumars are used to climb to the summit. By 9 or 10 AM we reach the summit. Amazing views of Mount Everest (8848m), Makalu (8481m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Lhotse(8516m), and other peaks surround us. After spending 5 or 10 minutes savoring the victory and taking pictures we head down via the same route. We reach Mera High Camp have some refreshment. Later we hike down to make a quick descent to Mera – la. Then, we head east. Taking a downward trail we reach Kongma Dingma where we rest for the night. Over-night at a tented camp in Kongma Dingma.

Max Altitude

6461m/211907ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

An extra day to rewind, relax and recharge your energy for the crossing of Amphu Lapcha. Overnight at a tented camp in Kongma Dingma.

Max Altitude

4850m/ 15912ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Leaving Kongma Dingma we walk past yak pastures and summer camps of yak herders. We proceed towards Seto Pokhari enjoying captivating views of Baruntse and Chamlang Himal. Overnight at a tented camp in Seto Pokhari.

Max Altitude

5035m/16520ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Climbing up a snowy moraine we reach the beautiful Seto Pokhari, a glacial lake. Head to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp enjoying views of Mount Everest and lakes along the Hongu basin. A walk past the Hongu Pokhari above the Hongu valley brings us finally to the Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Overnight at a tented Camp in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp.

Max Altitude

5650m/18538ft

Accomodation

Tent

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

After leaving the base camp you make your way across a snowy trail to Amphu Lapcha Pass. You are in the dramatic Upper Hongu Valley which is one of the wildest areas in the Everest Region. Cold, Harsh, and challenging, no human settlements are found at this place. After walking for about 4 to 5 hours you arrive at the pass. The pass looks stunning but daunting. Covered with ice shelves and serac cliffs, it is a steep incline and you use fixed rope, jumar, and ice axe to ascend the pass. This is one of the most difficult sections of your trip. The top is a narrow ridge filled with rocks. You get down using a fixed rope again. A walk through the Imja Glacier brings you to the Imja Tsho Lake in the Imja Valley. From here climb up a rocky moraine and head to Island peak Base Camp. Over-night at a tented camp in Island Peak Base Camp.

Max Altitude

5845m/19177 ft

Accomodation

Tent

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

The crossing of the Amphu Lapcha pass is grueling and leaves you exhausted. Rest and get your energy back. There will be checking of gear and equipment before the summit push. Have an early night for the big day tomorrow. Over-night at a tented camp in Base Camp.

Max Altitude

5200m/17061ft

Accomodation

Tent

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

After breakfast, we carry your pack and head out at 1 AM. Our daypack consists of snacks, camera, packed lunch, water, and any memento we want to leave at the summit. After ascending a rocky path you reach High Camp. Continue on a slope for about 3 hours to reach Crampon Point, the place where we put on our crampons as the trail becomes icy and snowy. We move ahead on a frozen trail in a group. From 5700m onwards the group will be secured by a man-rope. Walking on a narrow ridge brings us to the base of Imja Glacier. The sunrise over the Makalu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and Chamlang look stunning. As the slope is at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees the ascent is not that technical. The guides fix the ropes at the glacier. As we near the summit Lhotse appears very close. Lhotse hides the summit of Everest, so Mount Everest is not visible from Island Peak. The climb up a vertical wall using fixed rope before reaching the summit is the toughest part. We ascend the anchor points and cross crevasses using ladders. Holding on to the fixed rope and we walk along the ridgeline to the summit. The views are amazing. We have done it! At the summit, we take pictures and return via the same route. The descent is long and exhausting. We need to be extra careful as most of the accidents at Island Peak happen during descents. On reaching Base Camp we take rest and celebrate our victory. Later in the day, we hike down to Chukkung. Over-night at a teahouse in Chukkung.

Max Altitude

6189m/20306ft

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Duration(3, 867m) 3-4 hrs,
After the hard couple of days over the two high hidden pass in between the massif peaks, our route from here leads to a pleasant walk on the downhill slope to Dingboche then Pangboche village. After two hours of easy walk brings us at Dingboche village. Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of field enclosed by stone walls, protecting the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals. Dingboche has about more than ten teahouses and it is also the gateway to Chhukung and farther beyond for the most challenging traverses towards Makalu area and Hinko Valley. From Dingboche a gentle walk leads towards the Imjatse River with excellent views of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga and Tawoche peaks the trail leads to a small wooden bridge, from the bridge an easy walk to Pangboche village. Staying at over night here or option for heading to Tyangbuche.

Max Altitude

Accomodation

Teahouse

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Cross the Chukkung glacier and walk down to the Dudh Koshi River valley. Walk past Dingboche and descend to the Imja Khola(river). After crossing the river an upward trail brings you to the Sherpa village of Pangboche. Leaving Pangboche you climb down a path filled with amazing alpine scenery and views of Ama Dablam. Cross the village of Debuche and arrive at the small settlement of Tengboche. Spend some time exploring the village and visit the magnificent Tengboche Monastery. This is the oldest and the most important monastery in the Khumbu Region. Later take the trail to Namche. After you arrive in Namche you can enjoy a hot shower and a good meal of your choice. Over-night at a teahouse in Namche.

Max Altitude

3438m/11280ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Crossing the metal bridges covered with prayer flags and pine forests you descend to Lukla. Walk past the village of Monjo and the gate of the Sagarmatha National Park. An easy descent via the village of Phakding brings you once again to Lukla. Celebrations follow and you spend a joyous evening with the local crew celebrating your achievement. Over-night at a teahouse in Lukla.

Max Altitude

2800m/9187ft

Accomodation

Hotel / Lodge

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

Flight Duration: 35 minutes
Bid goodbye to the mountains and fly to Kathmandu. Once you reach Kathmandu, check-in at your hotel and take a rest. Evening or late afternoon you can explore Thamel by yourself and shop for souvenirs.

Max Altitude

1400m/4593ft

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast

We will drop you at the international airport well on time (3 hours before departure) to catch your flight. If you wish to explore more of the Himalayas do get in touch with us. We will be more than happy to organize a trip for you.

Max Altitude

1400m/4593ft

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

Packing Lists

Cloathing

Base layers (thermal top/bottom)
Fleece jacket + down jacket
Waterproof jacket & trousers
Trekking pants & shirts
Warm gloves + liner gloves
Warm hat & sun hat
Buff/neck gaiter
4-5 trekking socks + warm summit socks

Gears

Mountaineering boots + trekking boots
Crampons, ice axe, harness, carabiners (provided if needed)
Headlamp + extra batteries
Sleeping bag -20°C / -30°C rating
Trekking poles
Sunglasses (UV400 glacier grade)
Backpack 50-65L + daypack 30L

Personal Items

Sunscreen SPF 50+ & lip balm
Personal first-aid kit + altitude meds
Toiletries & fast-dry towel
Reusable water bottle + purification tablets
Snacks & energy bars

Other Items You Can Bring

Passport copies + insurance
Power bank + chargers
Camera / GoPro
Cash for mountain expenses

Trip Video

Frequently asked questions (FAQs)

Mera Peak & Island Peak Climbing (Double Peak – Expedition) Trek Questions

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